Gelatina Di Maiale

Sorry I have been away so long, but nothing has excited me enough to post. You might be sorry I’m back after this post.

This delicacy is popular worldwide. It’s also called by many different names. Some of you may know it as Head Cheese or Coppa Di Testa. It comes from the head meat of an animal, in this case a pig, and cooked in a mixture of vinegar and flavorings. Because of the calogen that is abundant in the animal’s head and bones, the liquid turns to gelatin when cooled. It’s also known as aspic.  Grandma Isabella used to make Gelatina with pigs feet and fresh ham hocks and it worked quite well. I used to love eating the gelatina right out of the jar she packed it in. I realize not many of you are lucky enough to have a good friend that raises pigs. My friend Noemi brought her pig to market and I share in half  the pig. But in my half I had her include the head and trotters, pig’s feet.  Great components for Gelatina.

I know this recipe may not be for everyone. As my son Joseph said when he saw the pig’s head in my freezer, “That’s weird! Having what I’m going to eat stare at me.” You can order a pig’s head at your local DSCN3335butcher. I had them cut it in quarters so it’s easier to handle. And it doesn’t quite look like a head if it’s cut up.  If getting a pig’s head is too much for you than you can buy fresh pig’s feet and hocks and cook them in the same way. You really want the full pig’s leg for this, which include the feet and hocks.

I went through my arsenal and the only pot large enough I had to fit this head in was my good old canning pot. Even with the pig’s head cut into quarters it didn’t fit in anything else I had, and I have some largeDSCN3339 pots. I took out the brains and eyes and cut off the ears and gave them to my German Shepherd Bella. She loved them! We all benefit from this feast! Did I just go too far there?

Gelatina di Maiale

  • 1 pig’s head, or fresh pig’s feet and hocks, or a combo of both.
  • 1 large onion, halved
  • 6 bay leaves
  • 10 peppercorns
  • 10 allspice berries
  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
  • salt & pepper to taste

If you are using the pig’s head, remove the brains, ears and eyes. You can discard them. Wash the head and feet well in cold water.

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Place the head and feet in a large pot. Fill the pot with cold water just enough to cover. Add the onion, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice berries and apple cider vinegar. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a slight simmer, skim off the foam that floats to the top. Cover and simmer for 5 hours.

Remove the head and feet from the pot and put aside to cool. Turn up the heat high and reduce the liquid  by a third.

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Remove from the heat and strain the liquid through multiple layers of cheese cloth.

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Pick through and remove all the meat from the bones. You will know what the meat is. Pull out the tongue and peel off the outer layer. Add that to the meat.  Season with salt and pepper.

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Pack the prepared mixture into a loaf pan that’s lined with enough plastic wrap that it hangs over the edges. Ladle spoonfuls of the reduced liquid over the meat. Allow to cool to room temperature then cover and refrigerate overnight.

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The next day when the liquid had set to gelatin, you can turn the pan over a dish and pull on the plastic wrap to help get it out of the pan.

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The only way I can describe the flavor of this dish is the meat has a richness to it. It’s very “porky”. The fact my pig was raised organically and locally would have given it a better taste than the soy and corn-fed pigs you buy commercially. Either way, it was a “hoot” trying to make this traditional dish and if you have the heart and stomach (and head) to give it a try, it’s well worth your time.

About Peter Bocchieri

Peter was born and raised in Brooklyn, NY and is a second generation Italian-American. He has a degree in Journalism from Long Island University and is an avid photographer, gardener and pet owner. Now that Peter is retired, he is relaxing at his home in North East Pennsylvania and cooking for his sons, Michael and Joseph, family and friends. Peter's passion for food was inspired by his Mother's and Grandmother's cooking, but at the age of 10 Peter felt he could do it better himself, so he did.
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10 Responses to Gelatina Di Maiale

  1. Louise says:

    OH BOY……………………….. I’m looking at it….and eating it at the same time. 😉 🙂 Pig’s feet…. that was my favoriate. Never saw it done this way. Not into making it, but sure love seeing it….. and enjoying the memories of taste. You really came back with a super recipe. I know my cousins will be loving this one. I’m forwarding it to them. Peter, you brought back some history for me…………and I’m sure for others too. Glad you are okay…. and how is Mom?
    Louise

  2. We just celebrated my Mom’s 95th birthday last weekend. Thanks for asking Louise!

  3. Rosemarie says:

    Not a favorite for me…sorry. But my Dad did so enjoy pig’s feet! As a child I was horrified 😦

  4. I understand Rosemarie. I’ll never forget the first time I saw my grandmother pull the lamb’s head out of the oven.

  5. Tano says:

    We called it SUZU at our Sicilian house and loved it when my mother made it. She used less meat and more gelatin. Reminded me of jello with pork meat! Good eating!!

  6. Richard Rotella says:

    My grandmother used fresh squeezed lemon instead of vinegar. Just as tasty.

  7. Lucille says:

    My husband is Calabrese and his family also calls this SUZU. I have a pot on the stove right now, boiling away all that pork goodness. Makes me drool. Feb is traditional month to makes this delicious meat.

  8. Immacoata De Luca says:

    I need to know how to make the Gelatin more firm??
    Regards,
    Maggie

    • Maggie, you need to cook the meat and bones for at least a 5 hour simmer in order to get the most collagen out of it. Then remove the meat and cook the liquid down by one third. That will give you a firm gelatin once it has cooled and set. Good luck.

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